PU Leather vs. Real Leather: A Sourcing Guide for Custom Apparel & Procurement

Side-by-side fabric and PU leather swatches to compare texture and color for PU leather selection-photo-by-pexels
Hey, if you’re sourcing for custom hats, gloves, or bags, PU leather pops up as a budget vegan pick over real leather. It’s fabric coated with polyurethane, way cheaper and animal-free. But labels confuse folks—I’ve helped tons of buyers sort this for their mass-custom orders.

Your team needs straight facts for supplier RFQs. PU leather runs 50-100 unit MOQs with 4-6 week leads. Real leather? 200+ units and 8-12 weeks. Hit our quote tool to spec it out and decide fast.

Core Composition: PU Leather Basics

PU leather starts with a split fabric base like polyester or cotton, topped with a thin polyurethane coat. It mimics leather’s look but it’s coated fabric, not hide. Artificial leather like this skips animal products.

Real leather comes from cow or sheep hides, tanned and finished to keep natural fibers—no plastic. For custom hats and gloves, PU weighs around 8-12 oz/yd² (220-330 gsm); real hits 15-20 oz/yd² (410-550 gsm).

I’ve spec’d both for clients. PU flexes great for gloves; real adds durability for structured apparel.

The Sustainability Showdown: Eco-Friendly vs. Vegan

For procurement teams with strict corporate social responsibility (CSR) mandates, the choice isn’t black and white. While PU leather is correctly labeled “vegan” because it skips animal products, it is effectively a petroleum-based plastic product. It does not biodegrade and contributes to microplastic waste. Conversely, while real leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, the tanning process, specifically chrome tanning—can be chemically intensive. If your client wants the “greenest” option, look for plant-based PU alternatives or “vegetable-tanned” real leather, which uses organic matter like tree bark instead of harsh chemicals.

Sock filled with baking soda tucked inside a leather tote bag interior to absorb odors-photo-by-pexels
Sock filled with baking soda tucked inside a leather tote bag interior to absorb odors-photo-by-pexels

Real Leather: The Traditional Choice

Genuine leather processing soaks hides, tans with chemicals or plants, then dyes and oils them. It breathes well and ages with a cool patina.

Breathability counts for all-day gear like work gloves—PU can trap heat. Our lines use full-grain real leather for premium customs, but higher MOQs due to sourcing.

Spotting Differences: Appearance and Feel

PU has a plastic sheen, slick feel, and faint chemical smell. Real leather? Matte, soft, earthy scent.

Rub it: PU stays smooth; real shows grain under pressure. Flex test for bags or upholstery—PU creases deep, real folds easy.

Our leather or synthetic options match your needs, like budget PU for custom gloves.

Durability Head-to-Head

PU holds up for light use, liquid-proof till it cracks from sun/heat in 2-5 years. It tears easy on punctures.

Real leather lasts 10-20+ years with care, building patina. It beats PU in abrasion—real over 20,000 cycles per ASTM D3884, PU 5,000-10,000.

Go real for heavy-wear apparel; PU for promos or prototypes.

Trait PU Leather Real Leather
Base Fabric + polyurethane coat Animal hide
Weight (oz/yd²) 8-12 15-25
Breathability Low High
Lifespan (yrs) 2-5 (indoor) 10+
Cost per yd $5-15 $20-50+
Vegan Yes No

Industry averages for your RFQs.

rolled-textile-lot-in-shallow Photo by Pixabay

Common Manufacturing Defects to Watch

When reviewing samples from your factory, knowing what to look for can save you thousands in returns. With PU leather, the most common defect is “delamination,” where the top polyurethane layer bubbles or peels away from the fabric base—often caused by poor humidity control during storage. With real leather, watch for “loose grain” (wrinkling where the hide separates from the underlying structure) or inconsistent dyeing across different batches. Requesting a “pre-shipment inspection” focusing on these specific issues is standard practice for orders over 500 units.

Cost and Maintenance Factors

PU keeps costs low—custom gloves $10-20/pair at 100 units. Real doubles that, but skips no tanning delays for faster PU leads.

Wipe PU with soap, avoid sun. Condition real yearly for stain resistance.

PU speeds market tests; pair with our apparel customization for quick samples.

When to Choose PU Leather for Customs

Grab PU for vegan branding, budgets under $5k, or under-6-week turns.

Skip for heavy use—it peels on car seats after 3 outdoor years.

Real shines in premium lines, durability needs, or veg-tanned eco picks. Send swatches; we handle blends like 70/30 PU/real.

Sourcing Tips for Procurement Teams

Check labels: ‘Genuine leather’ means real; ‘PU’ or ‘bonded’ is synthetic. Burn test: PU melts plastic-like, real smells like hair.

Our quotes in 24h, samples in 2 weeks. Tear strength? PU 20-30 lbs, real 50+ lbs per ASTM tests. See our sourcing tips for vendor talks.

Summary: Quick Pros and Cons for Buyers

PU Leather (Polyurethane)

  • Pros: Lower costs, vegan-friendly, water-resistant, consistent look across large batches.

  • Cons: Traps heat (low breathability), prone to cracking/peeling, lower perceived value.

Real Leather (Genuine)

  • Pros: Highly breathable, durable (develops patina), high resale value, tear-resistant.

  • Cons: Expensive, requires maintenance, inconsistent grain patterns, higher minimum order quantities (MOQs).

FAQ

What is PU leather made from? PU leather uses a fabric base coated with polyurethane plastic. No animal products. Great for vegan custom gear—test a swatch first.

Does PU leather breathe like real leather? No, PU traps moisture and heat. Real leather flows air for comfy all-day wear like gloves. Pick real for breathable needs.

How can I tell PU from real leather quickly? Check shine—PU plastic-like. Smell—no chemicals in real. Flex: PU creases, real molds. Quick tip: rub and sniff.

Is PU leather cheaper for custom orders? Yes, lower MOQs (50-100) and fast leads (4-6 weeks) suit tests. Use for prototypes before scaling to real.

What damages PU leather most? Sun, heat, scratches cause peeling. Keep indoors; condition real instead for longevity.

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